Frame Destination

Taking a trip often means taking a lot of pictures — and sometimes buying photos or local art at your destination. If you plan to pick up some local art, a framed picture, or even some loose prints while on your latest, greatest adventure, make sure that you pack and tag it the right way, so it doesn’t get damaged during your travels.

Before you leave, you may want to pack a few corner protectors or GalleryPouch™ bubble bags to protect your art on the way home. Photo storage bags are also a great way to protect photography until you get home and find that perfect frame.

Frames in a Car

When you’re traveling with your own car, small and large frames can be packed similarly to how you would when shipping picture frames, using cling film to protect the glazing, corner protectors to guard against nicks and dents, and a GalleryPouch™ bubble bag for overall protection.

When traveling with a picture frame, ensure that it’s secured inside the car so that it will not shift or bounce around. Anything that is not tied down can become a dangerous projectile in even a small fender bender.

Frames on a Train

Train travel may seem outdated, but it’s still a popular way to travel, especially in Europe and other countries outside the U.S. If you’re traveling by train, be aware that picture frames, no matter the size, may not be allowed. Amtrak, for example, prohibits artwork in both checked and carry-on baggage on their trains. (See Amtrak's listing under "Household and automotive items.") Note that the list is fairly vague, so it’s best to call the rail line on which you’re traveling to ensure you can take your frame with you.

Rules on commuter rails vary from city to city, but small, wrapped picture frames should not pose a problem. Large picture frames also may be allowed, but always check the rail service ahead of time.

Frames on a Plane

Air travel is far more restrictive than other types of travel. However, in terms of picture frames, the Transportation Security Administration (TSA), which sets the rules on what is and is not permitted on a plane, is far more lenient. The TSA states that glass picture frames are allowed in both carry-on baggage and in checked baggage, but notes that “the final decision rests with the TSA officer.”

Remember that even if the TSA gives the OK, you still have to satisfy the carrier’s regulations. Some airlines have strict cabin baggage requirements, especially in regard to size and weight. American Airlines, for example, only allows carry-on luggage that is 22 x 14 x 9 inches or less. Anything larger than that may need to be checked. Even checked baggage has a limit, though. Some airlines will not take any baggage, in the cabin or in cargo, if it weighs more than 100 pounds.

To give yourself the best chance of boarding a plane with your framed print or painting, make sure that you properly wrap and protect the item before measuring it, as any wrapping will add bulk and weight. If it doesn’t satisfy size restrictions for carry-on baggage, you may be forced to check the item. If that's the case, be sure to properly pack your art — complete with a "Fragile" sticker — or there's a chance it could break. Some airlines may load checked baggage haphazardly, putting your frame in danger.

With the right supplies and knowledge, you can protect your art, framed prints, or paintings as they make their way home, while also protecting your travel memories.

Last Updated November 1, 2021

Those that have been enchanted by the luster, durability and uniqueness of metal prints may experience just one stumbling block: how and where to hang them. Luckily, metal prints are easy to frame and hang, provided you have the right tools, knowledge and the perfect space.

The metal prints that we are referring to use a dye-sublimation process. Other metal print options are available that use a direct printing process, usually printed with a flatbed printer. In those cases, the surface is usually more susceptible to scratching and other damage compared with dye-sublimation metal prints. Depending upon the ink that’s used, they may not have the fade-resistance of dye-sublimation metal prints. You can still frame them without glass or other glazing, but extra care should be taken.

Dye-sublimation metal prints may be sold with or without a hanging block (also called a mounting block or float mount), which is a rectangular piece of metal or wood that features small slots for nails or screws; these blocks are located on the back of the print. Alternatively, some prints can be ordered with four pre-drilled holes in each corner. These prints can be hung with small metal posts that attach the print to the wall. Both of these types of prints can be hung immediately, and will give the appearance that the artwork is “floating” off the wall much like a floater frame.

Challenges of Hanging Metal Prints

Two dye-sublimation metal prints with Chromaluxe self-adhesive Aluminum Shadow Mount backings.

One of the downsides to hanging a metal print with four posts is that the print cannot be easily moved: once it’s on the wall, it’s there to stay. Additionally, instead of just one or two holes in the wall, you must create four, which can only be covered by a larger frame or by patching the holes. With the hanging block, on the other hand, you’re stuck with one look – floating – which may not match a more traditional home décor.

Even if your print comes with a hanging block or pre-drilled holes, however, you can still hang metal prints in a frame.

TIP: If you haven’t yet ordered a metal print frame, whether or not it has a hanging block determines what kind of frame and accessories you will need.

Keep in mind that a metal frame could potentially scratch the edges of a metal print, since metal will be in contact with metal. Apply self-adhesive frame sealing tape to the inside of the frame where contact is made between the metal frame and the print to mitigate this issue.

Wood frames will eliminate the chance of scratching but still require a backing board for support and to protect the metal print from the flexible metal “points” used to secure the art and backing. Regardless of which frame you choose, remember to take the thickness of the metal print and the backing board into account.

Metal Prints Without a Hanging Block

If your metal print has arrived without a hanging block, you can simply treat the print like any other piece of artwork and frame as you normally would, though without mat board or glazing. Metal prints don’t need to be as protected from the elements as carefully as paper-based prints, since the aluminum features a special coating that prevents it from degrading quickly.

Metal Prints With a Hanging Block or Pre-Drilled Holes

If your metal print has arrived with a hanging block, you’ll need to swap out one accessory: instead of purchasing foamboard to protect the print, you can order precut mat board that will be used as the backing board. The opening in the mat board will be cut to allow the hanging block to fit through.

Hanging blocks make metal prints far thicker, requiring a frame with a deep rabbet. Frame Destination carries a number of frames with rabbets at least ¾-inch thick to accommodate hanging blocks:

Metal	Wood
Nielsen profile 22	Profile 310
Nielsen profile 34	Profile 502
Nielsen profile 35	Profile 503
Nielsen profile 37	Profile 513
Nielsen profile 94	Profile 851
Nielsen profile 95	Profile 865
Nielsen profile 100	Profile 876
Nielsen profile 117	Profile 880
Nielsen profile 127	Profile S24
	Profile S30

If the metal print has pre-drilled holes you’d like to conceal with the frame, measure the distance from the corner to the holes and purchase a frame whose width is large enough to cover them.

Location, Location, Location: Metal Prints

All frames should be hung on a wall with the hanging hardware secured to a stud or by using another secure method to ensure that the art does not fall off the wall. Metal prints can be hung wherever a regular print is located, but remember that some metal prints have a luster that can be particularly shiny when opposite a window or in a brightly lit room.

Because metal prints are so durable, they’re ideal for spaces with high moisture content, such as bathrooms, or rooms that frequently have odors or smoke, such as kitchens. However, in those situations, keep in mind that if the print is hanging from a wood or metal block that used an adhesive (adhesives can fail over time), you should take extra care and consider hanging those prints from a wire attached to a frame.

Metal prints can also be hung outdoors, but similar steps should be taken to avoid the potential failure of a backing that was attached using an adhesive.

If you’re eager to make a change in your home, look to your picture frames. Whether you have an old frame that could use a little touch up or you’d like to customize a picture frame to match your color palette, a fresh coat of paint is a small change that can have a big impact on your home décor.

Painting Wood Picture Frames

Painting a wooden picture frame is much like painting any other piece of wood furniture. You’ll need a few items:

Wood picture frame
Sandpaper (60 and 120 grit)
Tack cloth
Paint brushes
Natural oil-based primer
Natural oil-based paint

Before painting a wood frame, you need to prepare the surface. All wood picture frames from Frame Destination are finished, some of which are also painted; if you are purchasing a wood picture frame from Frame Destination specifically to paint in a specific color, opt for one that has a natural finish such as profile S30 or profile 501.

Remove all parts of the frame, such as the glazing, if still attached. Next, use the coarse sandpaper (60 grit) to remove the existing paint or finish; move to the finer sandpaper (120 grit) to smooth out any rough edges. Using sandpaper to remove the finish and smooth it out allows the paint to better adhere to the wood.

Using the tack cloth, wipe down the frame. Tack cloth is slightly sticky and will remove any dust and sandpaper particles that have settled on the frame.

Apply a coat of primer, which does exactly what its name suggests: it primes the frame to receive the next coat of paint, allowing for better adhesion and brighter colors. After you’ve primed the frame, you can begin to paint. There are numerous types of paint available, including acrylic, latex, alkyd (synthetic) oil paint and natural (e.g. linseed) oil paint. Natural oil paint works best on wood picture frames, as it dries slightly softer and can thus expand and contract with changing temperatures.

Oil-based paints take longer to dry than latex paints, so let the frame sit undisturbed for at least eight hours. Apply the next coat of paint after you are sure the paint has dried. You can also paint wooden frames in a shabby chic style, which requires just a few more materials.

You can also spray paint wood picture frames. Spray paints are commonly oil-based and will provide more even coverage — just be sure to spray paint in a well-ventilated area and protect the surface on which you are painting.

Painting Metal Picture Frames

Unlike wood, metal is a nonporous material, which makes it more difficult for paint to adhere; you will notice paint more readily flaking off of metal objects as opposed to wooden ones. The materials you need, however, are similar:

Aluminum picture frame
Grease-cutting dish detergent
Wire brush
Sandpaper (80 and 120 grit)
Self-etching primer
Spray paint

Preparation is key when painting a metal picture frame. First, clean the frame with a grease-cutting dish detergent to remove any oils and let dry completely.

Once it is dry, use 80-grit and later 120-grit sandpaper to lightly abrade the surface. If the surface seems to have oxidized or has an old coat of paint, make sure to first remove this with a wire brush. Once sanded, clean again with water and detergent; finally, let the frame air dry.

Painting bare aluminum (i.e. a metal frame that has not be anodized) may result in a longer-lasting paint job. With bare aluminum, you can simply use a self-etching primer, which uses chemicals to score the surface of the metal for better adhesion. Anodized aluminum, on the other hand, has a layer that prevents paint from adhering to the surface. You certainly try — using the same self-etching primer — but note that the paint may not stick well. Frame Destination metal picture frames that have not been anodized include, but are not limited to:

Use spray paint on the metal picture frame, as this ensures an even finish. Let each coat dry completely in between coats.

Painting old picture frames or creating a custom color picture frame is a fun and easy do-it-yourself project — all it takes is a little prep work and paint. If you'd rather buy a read made picture frame online, Frame Destination offers thousands.

Metal prints are all the rage, but it is one type in particular that has taken the art and home décor world by storm: dye-sublimation metal prints. These prints are made using a process that has been around for decades but has only recently been applied to photography and artwork. The result is a crystal-clear print that has a radiance you can’t achieve with standard printing methods and materials.

These metal prints may look like magic, but it's real - and it's all thanks to the wonder of science.

What Is Dye-Sublimation Printing?

Dye-sublimation, as mentioned in our post explaining metal prints, has been around since 1957 when it was invented by French researcher Noël de Plasse of the textile company Lainière de Roubaix. The process, initially developed for textile printing, led to the founding of the company Sublistatis SA, which was dedicated solely to monetizing this new process.

Sublimation is type of phase change in which a solid transitions directly into a gas; the reverse is called deposition. With dye sublimation, specially made inks are able to sublimate — i.e. turn into a gas — directly into a substrate, commonly textiles or plastics. This causes the dye to become part of the finished piece, unlike other printing processes in which the ink sits on top of the substrate.

There are several important parts of the dye-sublimation process:

Graphics software: Before the item is printed — no matter what it is being printed on — the image is uploaded into professional graphics software for editing.

Printer: A special printer capable of printing the sublimation inks onto transfer paper is required.

Ink: The ink is perhaps one of the most important parts of this process. There are two major types of inks, including aqueous dye sublimation ink and solvent dye sublimation ink, but other categories (eco-solvent ink, for example) are growing in use.

Transfer/sublimation paper: You cannot print directly onto the final substrate. Instead, the special printer will print the image onto transfer paper, which holds the ink until it is placed into the heat press.

Substrate: The substrate (i.e. what the final image will appear on) must be able to accept sublimation ink. The most common substrates for dye-sublimation are textiles for garments, along with polyester, non-cotton polyester blends and polyester-coated semi-rigid plastics and other “rigids” (i.e. metal). Many other substrates can be printed on, however, provided they have the right coating.

Heat press: The heat press is the final stage of the dye-sublimation process. The substrate and transfer paper, with the image printed in reverse on the paper, are secured in the press. After some time in the press, the image is transferred to the substrate.

Metal prints for home décor are just the latest use for the dye-sublimation process. It’s far more common in the garment industry — according to Smithers Pira research, it comprises 75% of the dye-sublimation market — as its long-lasting, high-quality appearance is perfect for clothing that has to live through wearing, washing and drying.

Other industries making use of this special printing process include visual communications, which includes marketing signs, tradeshow and event graphics, and promotional materials such as mugs and hats. Technical industries are using dye-sublimation for accessories and parts, while the home décor industry has used it for specialty fabrics for windows drapes and curtains — and now, artwork.

How to Take Care of and Display Dye-Sublimation Prints

With the dye-sublimation process, the resulting metal print is a nearly permanent and durable piece of artwork that has much less chance of damage, scratching and fading. That doesn’t mean you should just leave them alone, though: you still need to clean, store and display them properly.

Clean Your Metal Print

Everything in your home, including your new metal print, will collect dust, while curious fingers will leave oily smudges. Neither dust nor fingerprints will do long-term damage to the print, but they detract from the print’s luster. Clean your metal print on a regular basis with a microfiber cloth and any all-purpose household cleaner (or even simple dish soap and warm water).

If your metal print needs to stay in storage before display, slip it into a GalleryPouch bubble bag to protect both the print and other artwork. Some metal prints may have sharp corners, so it’s important to be careful when storing it with delicate, paper-based art.

Display Your Metal Print

You can display your metal print anywhere inside your home but note that even though metal prints are resistant to fading, they will eventually lose some color vibrancy. Like any artwork, it’s wise to keep them out of direct sunlight. Dye-sublimation metal prints are not suitable for outdoor display, unless the printer has specifically outlined this use.

Enhance your print’s natural allure with the right picture frame for dye-sublimation metal prints. There are several excellent picture frames for metal prints that complement their vibrant colors, bringing an extra touch of sophistication to an already sleek and chic piece of artwork. Frame your print in a two-toned metal frame or make a statement with the bold, wide profile 99 — and let us know how it looks!

One of the latest trends in high-end art and home décor is the metal print: a photograph or other piece of artwork printed on a metal substrate (see Displate). While this seems straightforward, there is some confusion as to what a metal print is and isn’t, and how it differs from traditional photo prints.

Dye-Sublimation Metal Prints

When people refer to metal prints, they are most likely referring to prints made through the dye-sublimation process. It is not new: dye-sublimation was discovered in France in 1957 by Noël de Plasse, a researcher at textile company Lainière de Roubaix, who noticed that some solid dyes could transition to the gaseous phase without ever becoming a liquid. This was dubbed “transfer printing,” and it is used extensively to print on textiles, paper and other materials to create fabrics, banners, signs and even household items such as mugs.

Printing photographs on metal, most commonly aluminum, is a newer application of this process. Roger Laudy, a professional printer and owner of Image Wizards in Kentucky, is said to have developed the technique for creating metal prints through dye sublimation in 2003.

The most popular brands that create metal prints with the dye-sublimation process include Laudy’s Image Wizards, ChromaLuxe® and Unisub®, the last two of which are brands under the Universal Woods company. While each specific company may put their own spin on creating dye sublimation metal prints, the core process is the same.

To make a metal print made with the dye-sublimation process, the image is first printed in reverse onto sublimation paper using special inks. After the print is cut to size, it is secured on top of a coated aluminum sheet in a heat press. The heat and pressure cause the ink to turn into a gas and bond to the metal.

UV Metal Prints

Another method of printing photos onto metal is UV curable inkjet printing. In this method, an image is directly printed onto aluminum with special inks, which cure under UV light. This deposits the ink on top of the aluminum substrate — rather than combine with it, as in dye-sublimation — so there is no sheen to the ink as in other metal prints.

There are other types of prints that may be referred to as metal prints, but they are actually misnomers. A metallic print is simply a photo printed on metallic paper, which features multiple sheets of paper and laminate, often Mylar.

Where to Hang Metal Prints

Metal prints can be treated like any other framed photo print, except they are a little bit longer-lasting. Metal prints are ideal for bathrooms: they are waterproof, and because no glazing is necessary, there’s no risk of moisture buildup underneath the glass or acrylic.

While they are durable, metal prints should not be hung in direct sunlight — any dye will fade in intense UV light, though perhaps not as quickly as regular photographic paper. Certain ChromaLuxe® metal prints, however, are specifically designed to be hung outside in direct sunlight, thanks to their special UV coatings.

Framing Metal Prints

Because metal prints created with the dye-sublimation process are durable, scratch-resistant and won’t degrade like regular photo prints, they don’t require all of the normally recommended protective materials in a complete frame package, such as mat board and glazing.

But you can still dress up a metal print with the right metal or wood frame. Your print may arrive with a hanging block, which is a piece of wood or metal featuring a small hole that allows you to hang an unframed metal print; whether the metal print has a hanging block determines if you’ll need a backing board when ordering a frame for a metal print.

If the metal print has a hanging block — which can make it over a half-inch thick — two-toned metal frame profile 37 and frame profile 94 are great choices to display them. For metal prints without a hanging block, metal frame profile 97 and frame profile 99, with their shallow rabbets, are ideal for those thin metal prints.

Metal prints can be beautifully framed in either wood or metal — after you have your print, it’s simply a matter of choosing what you like best!

There are many ways to reduce our carbon footprint and protect the environment, such as bicycling instead of driving, taking shorter showers, using alternative energy, and, of course, recycling plastic bottles, cans and glass. Additionally, there is power to make a positive impact in the world with every Frame Destination purchase.

Picture Frame Packaging

We are particularly proud of how we package picture frames and other items to prepare for shipping — customers often comment on how well their items are protected during the journey. We use a number of different packaging materials to protect fragile items such as glass and mats and to ensure your order reaches its destination in perfect condition, and many of them can be recycled.

All of our plastic-based packaging materials listed below are recyclable, which can be identified by the Plastic Industry Association’s Resin Identification Code — more recognizable as those numbers within arrows arranged in the shape of a triangle.

Shrink wrap: Also called stretch film, this recyclable packaging material is made from polyolefin, a combination of ethylene and propylene.

Green bubble wrap: Made from recycled polyethylene, this packaging material can be thrown right in with the rest of the plastics to be recycled once again.

Wrapping film: Also called bundling film, this material is made of polypropylene and is recycled under Resin Identification Code 5.

The white mask on sheets of acrylic is also recyclable; the material is made from polyethylene and is identified as a 4 under the plastics code.

Compared to most packaged items you receive at home — stuffed with nonbiodegradable packing peanuts — our packaging is as green as can be. The only packaging material that is not recyclable is the packing tape, which, although made of polypropylene, has additional components that make it unrecyclable.

Metal Picture Frames

You can recycle any metal picture frame from Frame Destination — metals are valuable materials and can be recycled repeatedly without altering their properties. Recycling metals not only saves these items from the landfills, it is also great for the environment because it requires less energy to process than the manufacturing of new products using original raw materials.

Photo Storage Materials

Certain photo storage materials are completely recyclable, including Crystal Clear Bags. These bags are made from polypropylene and can be safely recycled with other plastics, according to the manufacturer.

Picture Frame Glazing

Acrylic is readily recyclable, according to Acrylite, the manufacturer of our acrylic picture frame glazing. We recycle our own scrap acrylic, sending any excess back to the manufacturer for recycling. Regular picture frame glass is often not allowed in regular glass bins, especially if broken, but some communities have special recycling centers where you can take this glass.

Can’t Recycle? Reuse!

Even if some materials aren’t recyclable, there are still picture framing items that can be reused. Mat board and mount board, for example, can be used for craft projects even if they have a window. Frame Destination makes sure not to waste a single piece of mat board — instead of throwing scraps away, we cut them into smaller mats and, when the need arises, donate them to local schools.

If a GalleryPouch has finished its job of protecting your paintings or framed photos, there are a number of other uses for GalleryPouch bubble bags. The frames themselves — especially wood frames, which can be stripped and repainted — can be turned into great holiday décor or used for creative sentimental gifts.

Our Sustainable Practices

Sustainable practices are an important part of overall responsible business practices. We partner only with wood picture frame manufacturers that practice sustainable harvesting, meaning that every handcrafted wood frame — whether it’s Durian, Pulai or Plantation Pine — is part of a plan to protect the earth’s forests.

We are honored you’ve chosen Frame Destination frames and accessories to provide a home for your art or bring your vision to life. We are also proud that with each new Frame Destination order, our customers have the ability to make a positive impact on the environment.