While some artists paint directly on canvases that are already stretched over a wood frame, others prefer to paint on flat canvases and stretch their own. This allows for a professional, customized final product. Frame Destination offers stretcher bar frames for canvases in more than 60 different sizes — and can even create custom sizes as they are all handmade in-house by our trained staff.

Stretcher bar frames are a better option than tongue and groove stretcher bars that you assemble yourself because they’re already in the square shape you need, meaning no rough edges and no danger of collapsing. You also don’t have to clean the wood shavings like you would for a tongue and groove stretcher bar, which, if left to sit in the frame, could damage your canvas.

Take a look at this “how-to” guide to choosing and using stretcher bars.

Which Type of Stretcher Bars Are Right for You?

Each stretcher bar frame varies by the height of the frame and the riser height. The riser height determines how much space there is between your canvas and the top of the bar. Determining the riser height is important when making your frame size decision, because if your canvas isn’t stretched tight enough, it will sag over time; a line in your canvas can also appear.

If you want to frame your artwork in a wood frame, a shorter stretcher bar frame should be used. If you want to hang your art without a frame and “float” it on the wall like the galleries do, then a taller wood frame would be ideal. For larger frames, you can purchase a bracer bar to reinforce the sides of the stretcher bar frame to ensure it doesn’t sag.

Frame Destination offers stretcher bar frames with medium and low risers, as well as a gallery wrap stretcher frame used for gallery and floater frames. This particular frame is easy to add a foamboard backing to, which provides support to the canvas in addition to stretching it.

How to Stretch Canvas Using Stretcher Bars

To stretch your canvas using the stretcher bars you will need:

  1. Electric staple gun
  2. Canvas pliers (optional)
  3. Your canvas
  4. A stretcher bar frame

Step 1: Measure the height and width of your canvas to determine what dimensions you’ll need in a frame, leaving enough extra canvas to fold and staple. If you’re planning on putting your canvas in a wooden frame, purchase a frame with a shorter stretcher bar.

Step 2: Check your frame for loose wood or any other rough surfaces, and place your canvas face down on a clean surface.

Step 3: Fold one side of the canvas over the stretcher bar and clip it in place with the pliers, if using. Staple once in the middle of the fold.

Step 4: Turn the frame 180 degrees and repeat.

Step 5: Repeat on the other two sides of the frame.

Step 5: Moving in a circle around the sides of the frame, add an additional two staples on either side of the first staple, while pulling the canvas tightly. However, do not pull it too tight, as the canvas will need room for shrinkage and expansion.

Step 6: The canvas should now have fold corners. Cut the tip off of the top of the corner and fold it down, stapling it to the frame. If you don’t cut the canvas corner, it won’t lay flat against the wall or in your frame.

Step 7: Flip the canvas over, and either place it in a wood frame (if using the smaller stretcher bar frame) or hang it directly on the wall for a gallery wrap.

While some artists paint directly on canvases that are already stretched over a wood frame, others prefer to paint on flat canvases and stretch their own. This allows for a professional, customized final product. Frame Destination offers stretcher bar frames for canvases in more than 60 different sizes — and can even create custom sizes […]

Float-mounting is a mounting technique where the edges of the artwork are left uncovered. When mounted this way, the artwork appears to be floating within the frame or mat board window. Float-mounting is normally used when the image goes all the way to the edge of paper and you don’t want any of it covered. It’s also a great way to show off paper with deckled or torn edges.

How to Float Mount your Artwork

Measure your artwork, obtaining the width & height.

Artwork

Determine how much visible area you want around the matboard and then calculate the uncut matboard size.

A common question I get with regards to float-mounting is “How much space should be left around the art?” There’s no right or wrong answer, but typically I like between 1/2" – 2 inches of space. For this image, I decided not to use a mat. I went with a 2-inch visible border around the art using an uncut blank mat board as the backing.

Calculate the outside dimension of your matboard.

Image sizes are normally expressed as width by height (width” x height”). The “sign stands for inches. Keep in mind; however, that you are dealing with four sides. *Remember to double whatever number you are adding to each side.

For example:

Artwork size = 9” x 12”

Desired visible area = 2 inches

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Pick out an uncut mat board

Finally, it’s time to mount your artwork using the hinging technique.

We are using a v-hinge; which looks exactly like the t-hinge, except the tape is completely hidden under the artwork.

When you hinge artwork it’s preferable to hinge the top only, allowing the bottom to hang free. This allows the paper to expand and contract with temperature changes. However, if your paper is warped and just won’t lie flat, you can also add a small hinge at the bottom. Let’s get started!

Flip your artwork over keeping the top of the image close to you. Cut 4 strips of Self-Adhesive Linen Hinging Tape. The length of the strips depends on the size of your artwork. If your paper is less than 30 inches, 1 – 4 inches is typically fine.

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Make your first hinge; remove the paper backing from one of the strips and place it in the top corner – vertical, with the sticky side UP. Remove the paper backing from a second piece and place it horizontally, sticky side DOWN across the top. It should look like a capital “T”. The bottom edge of the “T” should be slightly lower than the top edge of the paper. Repeat on the other side with the remaining 2 strips of tape.

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Closeup of the hinge. *Note – if your paper is very wide, you may need 3 or more hinges across the top.

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Flip your artwork over and carefully center it on the uncut matboards. Do not press down on the hinged area until it is properly centered. Using a tape measure to check the border sizes is the most accurate way of centering.

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Once your artwork is centered, gently smooth the top edge of paper to create the adhesion.

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Frame your floated artwork in your favorite wood or metal picture frame!

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Product Details:

Uncut Mat Board – Bainbridge 4-ply Alphamat in Mimosa

Frame – Nielsen Profile 24 in Brushed Satin German Silver

Float-mounting is a mounting technique where the edges of the artwork are left uncovered. When mounted this way, the artwork appears to be floating within the frame or mat board window. Float-mounting is normally used when the image goes all the way to the edge of paper and you don’t want any of it covered. […]

When mounting photos to mounting board or mat board, there are several different routes you can take. Whether your primary goal is finding the most convenient method or preserving your photo or document, see which of these five mounting techniques resonates with you the most.

Hinging Tape and Mat Boards

Hinging tape is used to “hinge” a mat board to the mount board. The hinging tape must be acid-free in order to avoid damage to the photos. Hinging tape is available in linen and gummed, which requires water to activate the adhesive.

Steps for Using Hinging Tape

Pros: The hinging tape method is a traditional method of framing, giving your display a more professional feel. Using the T-hinge method also guarantees that the photograph will be centered within the mat board.

Cons: Using gummed hinging tape is messier and more difficult to use than self-adhesive versions.

Photo Corners with a Self-Adhesive Back

Photo corners are acid-free, clear, and have passed the “Photo Activity Test” (PAT) to ensure they are photo-safe. They serve as the mounting technique of choice for museums around the world.

Steps for Using Photo Corners

Pros: Photo corners are stronger than tape and are professional quality. They are also “photo-safe,” because no chemicals will come in contact with your photo.

Cons: There aren’t really any cons to using photo corners, which is probably why museums use them!

Dry Picture Mounting

This technique requires special adhesive tissue that affixes the photograph to the mount board. The photo is permanently attached to the board with heat to  activate the adhesive and with pressure to remove all air. These steps ensure the images is perfectly flat. This process is most successful with a dry-mount press.

Steps for Dry Mounting

NOTE: Be careful not to use the iron directly on the photograph. Also do not use the steam option on your iron during this process. The moisture from the steam will ruin the adhesive and your photo.

Pros: There is no chance of the photographs falling down or peeling off the mount board.

Cons: The photos are permanently stuck to the mount board and you cannot remove them without ruining them. This means you cannot reframe the photos, which could reduce the value of one-of-a-kind artifacts and photos. Using the steam option on your iron could ruin the adhesive and your photo.

Wet Picture Mounting

This technique requires using a wet paste to the mount board itself. After the paste is applied, you must lay the photos down onto the board, applying pressure with your hands and the glass from the frame. There is no heat required.

Steps for Wet Mounting

Pros: It’s similar to the dry picture mounting technique, but you don’t have to use an iron, measure, or cut anything out.

Cons: This method takes a while to dry. There is also a higher risk of lumps, bumps and ruined photos depending on how much paste you use. If you lay the glass on top before the paste around the outside of the photos is dry, it could muck up the glass.

Spray Mounting

We carry 3M™ Super 77™ Multipurpose Spray Adhesive, which is an acid-free and professional quality spray. It’s clear and dries quickly. Like dry mounting, the results of this technique are permanent.

Steps for Spray Mounting

Pros: It’s cleaner than wet mounting, and arguably easier.

Cons: The photos get pretty sticky with spray adhesive. You need to have a very steady hand when placing the photos on the board.

Give one of these methods a try based on what you’re trying to accomplish. We’d love to hear how it goes for you, so let us know in the comments below!

Further Reading:

Lat Updated July 27, 2021

When mounting photos to mounting board or mat board, there are several different routes you can take. Whether your primary goal is finding the most convenient method or preserving your photo or document, see which of these five mounting techniques resonates with you the most. Hinging Tape and Mat Boards Hinging tape is used to […]

Hans Ulrich Obrist, a world-renowned art historian and curator at London’s Serpentine Galleries, described his role as a curator in an interview as “that of a catalyst—and sparring partner.” Good curators make the right things happen in an exhibit, creating the best possible experience for everyone involved.

In the interview, Obrist said that curating as a profession is defined by the four “things” that they do:

  1. Preserve, “in the sense of safeguarding the heritage of art”
  2. Select new work
  3. Connect to art history
  4. Display or arrange the work

“It's a mass medium and a ritual,” Obrist said. “The curator sets it up so that it becomes an extraordinary experience and not just illustrations or…books.”

Curators are communicators, tasked with presenting art in a way that allows it to express its message, regardless of the scale of the exhibit. Though Obrist’s definition lists only four “things,” there are a few more tasks—seven, in fact—to undertake when curating an art show, especially for the first time.

Identify a Theme

Art exhibits need themes, just as essays need a strong thesis or businesses need great mission statements. Even small -venue shows involving a limited catalog of works need a theme.

Some exhibits come with predetermined themes, depending on the basis of the exhibit:

If there is no apparent theme, a theme may arise after choosing a few “inspiration” pieces that reflect the intended message of the show.

Select the Art

Choosing pieces for an exhibit becomes more complicated with each artist involved—it entails far more than “shopping” for the right works.

When someone sets out to purchase a piece of art for their home, they spend time researching what they want and looking at different works. Rarely does it happen that a piece is spotted, purchased and displayed all in a week’s time. Curating takes all this, but expands it to cover multiple pieces of art produced by many different individuals.

Choosing pieces for an art show is a picking and editing process that incorporates the curator’s knowledge of art and personal tastes.

Determine the Venue

Successful art exhibits depend heavily upon the right venue, which is often limited by budget. However, the floor plan and logistics of any space affects all other elements of a show. A lack of proper lighting will impact how the artwork looks, while food and drinks—commonly served at most art shows—may end up all over the artwork if ineptly planned. More seriously, structural issues within the space could pose a danger, especially if displaying large or heavy pieces.

Even the exterior of the venue matters! Pay attention to parking and accessibility, and provide signage if the location is hard to find.

Organize and Arrange the Artwork

Curating is not just art interpretation; it requires some hands-on practical skills, such as knowing how to use a hammer and screwdriver. On the technical side, learn about the best display techniques available, both for safety and aesthetic reasons, and ensure the display methods are appropriate for the venue. For example, you may need extra braces for windy, outdoor locations, or special mounting materials for historical venues.

On the creative side, it’s important to map out viewing routes that make sense for the artwork: chronologically, by medium or subject, or even size or style.

Interpret the Art

Curators convey the message of a piece so that those visiting can “understand” the flow. Provide background information on the artists in the exhibit to offer some insights to viewers; including some striking facts may make a piece more memorable.

Relate the subject of the piece to help observers create their own story about the work—you do not have to explain all the ideas, but give the attendees something to discuss. If an artist’s work resembles a known artist, provide some context for the comparison—understanding and relating these influences enriches the experience for viewers.

With good curating, viewers take away more than just a memory of an image from an art show.

Care for the Art

Performance art aside, most artists intend for their works to last a long time; it is the curator’s job to safeguard works included in the exhibit.

Transport Art

Moving art is an art in and of itself. It requires appropriate transportation, especially if there are large pieces—you’ll need trucks, not just some rope to attach to the top of a minivan. Ensure that the people you employ are capable of lifting and moving large pieces, and don’t skimp on just how many people just for the budget—one or two people may not be able to carry a large sculpture, for example.

During transport, protecting the art’s integrity is crucial. The correct protection depends upon the medium, but consider reusable items, especially if the exhibit will move to several different locations. Frame Destination’s GalleryPouch™ is a sturdy, reusable option to protect not just the art, but also the frame.

Curate and Multi-Task

Curating goes beyond picking out pretty pictures. It entails research, creativity, project management skills, accounting knowledge, and the understanding that no part of the process stands independent of the others.

Hans Ulrich Obrist, a world-renowned art historian and curator at London’s Serpentine Galleries, described his role as a curator in an interview as “that of a catalyst—and sparring partner.” Good curators make the right things happen in an exhibit, creating the best possible experience for everyone involved. In the interview, Obrist said that curating as […]

Shabby chic isn’t going anywhere. The design trend has shown staying power ever since it took hold in Great Britain in the 1980s, where it allegedly earned its name from The World of Interiors magazine. While shabby chic celebrates charmingly worn-down furniture and items, anything can be altered to match the style.

You can transform a regular picture frame into a decorative "shabby chic" accent for your home in just a few easy steps. But before we get started turning the frame itself into a piece of art, let’s identify what "shabby chic" really looks like by eliminating what it is not:

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Shabby chic items “clean up nicely,” returning to a state of grace and beauty. These items paint colorful mental pictures such as:

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What You Need

    1. Picture Frame: It should be a good, sturdy wood picture frame. Do not use a poor-quality frame as it may not last long. Shabby chic highlights an item’s past and future glories, so make sure it’s a frame you’re proud to display for years to come.

 

    1. Sandpaper: Select coarse (grit class P40 and P50), fine (P120) and superfine (P1000) sandpaper.

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    1. Tack cloth

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    1. Paint brushes of assorted sizes

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    1. Wax candle or crayon (white or colorless)

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    1. Paint: You’ll need satin or eggshell paint finish in white and two other colors.

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TIP: A more pronounced distressed look requires a brighter or deeper color than the first coat of paint. The brighter color will be more visible through the other layers after sanding than a paler hue. For a subtler look, use pastels or neutrals.

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Once you have all your tools and the frame ready, you can begin transforming your picture frame.

9 Steps to Shabby Chic

    1. Sand the Frame

Start by roughing up any glossy areas, creating an uneven finish. Additionally, sand any sharp or protruding areas, both for safety’s sake and because future snags may damage the finish you worked so hard to achieve. Wipe the frame with the tack cloth to remove dust and grit.

    1. Paint It, Part One

Pick a paint color and apply it to the frame using a brush. The application need not be perfect, but try to cover all areas of the frame. Let the first coat dry for about a half hour.

    1. Wax on

Since paint adheres poorly to wax, the next coat of paint will be splotchy, creating the desired distressed look. Rubbing on a lot of wax means more “missing paint” later, lending a more disused flair. Smaller amounts applied just at the corners and edges results in just a touch of shabbiness. Rub the candle or crayon wherever you want wear marks. Don’t be afraid to go a little crazy with the wax — getting the right look requires a fair amount of the stuff!

    1. Paint It, Part Two

Use another brush to apply the second paint color over the first. Perfection is neither required nor advisable. Let the paint dry, which usually takes over an hour.

    1. Wax Off

Fold a piece of the coarse sandpaper so that it has a rigid edge. Using the folded edge, rub away the wax-coated areas. When you start to see the first paint color coming through, stop sanding. Smooth out the edges of the areas with fine sandpaper. Avoid over-sanding areas, as that can remove the first coat of paint.

    1. Wax On Again

Rub the wax over exposed areas of the initial paint coat. Forget neatness and precision: slather it on so that it also goes onto the second paint coat surrounding the exposed first coat.

    1. Apply More Paint

The shabby chic look finally becomes apparent with the application of white paint. Coat all surfaces of the frame with the white paint, and then let it dry completely. Note that each successive paint layer takes longer to dry.

    1. Sanding to the Best Distress

Using coarse sandpaper, work off the waxed areas beneath the white paint to expose the other paint colors beneath. Avoid removing the first layer! Once the desired amount of color shows through, switch to the fine sandpaper to remove any really rough edges and borders. Wipe the frame lightly with the tack cloth. If desired, preserve it with a light layer of a clear satin acrylic sealer.

    1. Hang It Up

How and where a frame hangs and what it encases are big parts of pulling off the shabby chic vibe. If the frame will have artwork within it, don’t worry about being too “matchy-matchy.” Consider color, style, and try different options; you may be surprised at what works! You could also consider framing a mirror for a completely different look and function. For an easier build, try a rustic picture frame from FD.com.

 

yay-15797540-digital Remember: Colors look different depending upon the light, so consider the location if you’d prefer the frame’s color to be consistent, or highlighted by sunlight. However, if there is a valuable photograph or print within the frame, make sure to use the correct type of UV glazing to protect the piece. Having a shabby chic frame is great, but shabby-looking artwork — not so much.

Shabby chic isn’t going anywhere. The design trend has shown staying power ever since it took hold in Great Britain in the 1980s, where it allegedly earned its name from The World of Interiors magazine. While shabby chic celebrates charmingly worn-down furniture and items, anything can be altered to match the style. You can transform […]

When you spend a significant amount of time and money on a beautiful digital photograph for your home or office, you want to be able to enjoy it for a while. Unfortunately, a variety of factors can affect your digital prints and distort the way they look over time. But take heart, because there’s hope for making your portraits last longer.

The Image Permanence Institute, a leading nonprofit committed to preserving images, did a scientific research study called the DP3 Project that resulted in recommendations on how to preserve photos. Thanks to the research, we were able to put together some helpful tips for storing and handling your images.

Decay and Its Effects

Depending on the type of print you have, there are different factors that can cause the decay of your digital prints. Heat, moisture, and air pollutants are the usual suspects. If you’re not sure if your photo is suffering from decay, here are some signs to look for:

You can help lessen the effects of decay by controlling the temperature, humidity and air quality of the room where your photos are stored.

Storing Your Photos at the Right Temperature

Temperature and humidity affect the rate of aging for digital prints. Properly storing your photos at the right temperature and humidity can help preserve your photos. IPI recommends the following temperature and humidity ranges for different types of digital prints:

Protecting Your Photos from Air Pollution

Pollution from several sources can affect the quality of your photos. It can come from the storage area, the housing and framing products in your home, nearby materials, and from the photo itself. Various gases in the air can cause the damage as well. Ozone and nitrogen dioxide may cause yellowing of the phots and bleeding for inkjet prints.

Handling Best Practices

The main issues that occur when handling photos are colorant scratching, scuffing and smearing, and surface cracking. In order to prevent these effects, use the following precautions when handling your photos:

Take these steps and save yourself the headache of replacing or throwing away damaged digital photos. By taking the necessary care, you can extend the life of your digital prints and be able to enjoy them for years to come. For more information on how to protect your digital photos from decay and deterioration, visit the full IPI Guide to Preservation of Digitally-Printed Photographs.

When you spend a significant amount of time and money on a beautiful digital photograph for your home or office, you want to be able to enjoy it for a while. Unfortunately, a variety of factors can affect your digital prints and distort the way they look over time. But take heart, because there’s hope […]