Nowadays, picture frames are used merely to “frame” beautiful pieces of art, photography, archival documents and treasured mementos. However, when they were first developed, frames were included in the art and even considered a piece of art themselves. In fact, according to “A Survey of Frame History” in Picture Framing Magazine, historically “more attention was paid to making frames fit into an architectural setting” rather than the frames being created to “complement the paintings they surrounded.”
Quite a big difference exists between the use of frames in the past and the way we use frames today. Here’s a quick look at the history of picture frames, including when they were first made, what they were made out of and where they were first developed.
When Picture Frames Were First Created
Frames for pictures as a concept have been around since the times of the ancient Egyptians and the Greeks, where “framing borders” were used in paintings on pottery and walls to create sections of scenes. One of the earliest physical frames dates back to AD 50-70; the wooden frame and the portrait within was found in an Egyptian tomb and was almost perfectly preserved.
The twelfth and thirteenth centuries brought about the hand-carved, wooden frames that we recognize today. These frames were used as part of a church’s decor, and provided borders to separate the different paintings and sections within the sanctuary—much like the concept of framing borders introduced centuries earlier.
Frames used within homes were only introduced after the “mobile frame” movement, according to “A Survey of Frame History.” Originally, artwork was made frame first—in other words, the area in which the artwork was to be painted was demarcated by the carved frame, and the artwork was later added; these pieces were largely immobile, as they were generally part of a church’s structure.
When people began to realize that there were more individuals interested in art outside of the church, these “moveable, independent painted units” became more common and new framing methods were developed.
Where Frames Were First Developed
It’s hard to pinpoint exactly where frames were first created, though the oldest discovered frame seems to have come from Egypt, as stated above. The development of free-standing mobile pieces—similar to frames as we know them today—began in Europe; these pieces were mainly used in churches, until displaying artwork in private homes became fashionable.
What Were the Original Frames Made Out of?
The frame found in Egypt was made out of wood, and the practice of using wood has continued up to l today. In the 16th century, frames were made out of oak, until pine became popular in the 17th century because it was lighter and easier to work with. It was fairly time consuming to carve the intricate details and patterns that were expected in frames then, so the frame makers had to devise another way. This is why papier-mâché was first used in the 17th century, which allowed for a more decorative look by simply pressing patterns onto the frame.
Larger framed pieces that would be included on a church altar were made out of heavier wood. The frame was not only used for decoration, but as structural supports, because these frames were “made from several pieces of wood glued together,” according to “A Survey of Frame History.” During the Renaissance, particular care was taken in regards to wood choice, such as poplar, walnut, linden, chestnut, or elm, for frames, especially regarding their purposes—structural or decorative.
Additionally, when framing portraits of monarchs and other noble individuals, the types of frames and the materials used in the Renaissance were directly related to their wealth and power. In other words, the more bling and detail you had on your framed portrait, the more powerful and respected you were. These noble frames were typically made with walnut, ebony, tortoiseshell, ivory inlay, and other expensive materials.
Nowadays, picture frames are used merely to “frame” beautiful pieces of art, photography, archival documents and treasured mementos. However, when they were first developed, frames were included in the art and even considered a piece of art themselves. In fact, according to “A Survey of Frame History” in Picture Framing Magazine, historically “more attention was […]
Cooler weather brings out the crafty girl in me! Recently, I decided to try my hand at making a holiday shadow box. A shadow box is a fully enclosed, deep frame that you put objects inside rather than artwork or photos. Shadow boxes are often wide enough to stand on their own if you want to place it on a mantel or table. Small shadow boxes can also be hung on the wall like art.
When making a shadow box, you typically pick a theme to guide you. You can make year-around shadow boxes (using wine corks is a popular trend right now), or make holiday themed ones to decorate with. Once you have your theme, the shadow box usually consists of a themed background, filler objects, and sometimes a message.
Today’s example uses Halloween-themed items – pumpkin paper, spooky stickers, and candy corn. You can adapt this to any holiday or event by just switching out the paper, stickers, and filler items.
DIY Shadow Box Supplies
To make your own shadow box, you’ll need:
- A deep frame that completely closes with a backing board and glass front
- Craft paper that fits your theme and is the same size as your frame
- Filler items that match your theme
For my shadow box, I’m using a Nielsen Profile 100 picture frame. This frame is 1 11/16” deep, making it perfect for this fun project. You’ll want to be sure you choose a frame that is deep enough to fit whatever you’re planning to use as filler. Christmas ornaments are a popular shadow box filler, but can be wide – so be sure you choose smaller filler items and a frame deep enough to fit.
I picked 5x7 for the size because you can quickly make a lot of decorative shadow boxes for very little cost. This is a great size if you’re using shadow boxes as a craft activity for kids. This popular frame size is affordable and gives kids enough space to be creative without getting too crazy. However, you can get as large as your budget – and vision – allows.
Here’s an image of the supplies for my Halloween-themed shadow box. You’ll see the craft paper I’m using for the back of my shadow box (cut to size for my 5x7 frames), a bag of candy corn for fun 3D filling, and a few stickers to add a little extra “boo” to my box.
Step 1
Remove one side of the frame per the instructions and slide out the foam board backer and glass.
Place your craft paper on top of the foam board. If you plan on leaving this shadow box assembled you can use a craft-safe adhesive to permanently secure the paper to the backing board. If you plan to use the same frame and switch your shadow box fillings with the seasons, you can put a tiny piece of tape across the top to help the paper lie flat while keeping it easily removable.
Apply your decals or stickers to the frame glass. These can be fun theme objects (like the spider in my project) or letters to spell out a message.
Step 2
Slide your foam board (with your paper facing front!) and glass back into the frame.
Turn the frame so that the opening is facing up and add your 3D fillers (like my candy corn in this photo).
Step 3
Place the side back onto the frame and rotate the frame so that it’s facing the right way (if necessary). Give it a gentle shake to align everything to your liking and then display your amazing shadow box!
A Shadow Box for Every Season
Fair warning, this craft can be addicting! Once you make your first shadow box you may find yourself wishing the next holiday was already here so you can make another one.
If you’re making holiday shadow boxes, make them all the same size so you can simply swap them out in the same location as the season changes. For this, order your frames in bulk to get a discount and ensure they all match. Then, you can make all the boxes as once or stretch it out into a fun year-long crafting project.
Here are a few additional examples of other shadow boxes I made using this same method. The possibilities are truly endless!
Cooler weather brings out the crafty girl in me! Recently, I decided to try my hand at making a holiday shadow box. A shadow box is a fully enclosed, deep frame that you put objects inside rather than artwork or photos. Shadow boxes are often wide enough to stand on their own if you want […]
We’ve already discussed how to pack canvas prints and other art pieces for shipping. But when it comes to packing framed pieces, it’s a totally different ballgame. To make sure your framed artwork arrives at its destination totally intact, follow four simple steps — which I'll "unpack" below.
Step 1: Cling Film
A common way framed art gets damaged during shipment is when the frame detaches from the piece, breaking in the process. You can help prevent this separation by tightly wrapping the artwork with cling film — like plastic wrap but stickier. Once you have the piece framed and glazed per your specifications, start from the back and wrap the cling film around several times to be sure it’s extra secure. Starting from the back of the piece ensures that there won’t be messy diagonal sections of cling film blocking the front, or visual focus, of your piece. For good measure, hold the cling film in place with some packing tape along the seams.
Step 2: Edge Guards and Corner Protectors
If you ship a lot of framed artwork, it’s always good to have a large supply of edge guards and corner protectors. Plastic or another hard material will safeguard the edges and corners of the frame; however, cardboard also works well for most pieces. toSimply tape the corner protectors on each corner of the piece, and tape the edge guards around the edges. (Since the tape should not be touching the artwork directly, any sort of packing tape will work.) These protective guards add extra shock absorption to prevent the glass and frame from cracking.
Step 3: Air Cushions and Insulating Foam
Speaking of shock absorption: Air cushions and insulating foam go a long way toward keeping your art safe during shipping. You can find both at most home supply centers and hardware stores. Purchase or cut insulating foam that’s slightly larger than the piece itself. Then construct an “art sandwich” using packing tape to bind the two slices of foam together, with your art tucked safely in the center.
Bubble wrap or air cushions (aka, air pillows) can be placed around your art sandwich like side dishes, to keep the analogy going. You can start with a layer of air cushioning around the piece once it’s inside the shipping box. Now, instead of your art absorbing the damaging vibrations and sudden jolts of shipping, the air cushions will. They also keep the piece from slip-sliding around in the box, which can cause severe damage.
Step 4: Durable Shipping Box
The final piece of the puzzle is a sturdy shipping box. If you have the funds and want to splurge on high-quality shipping boxes, MasterPak’s StrongBox brand boxes have three layers of foam and cardboard that are as strong as plywood. The multiple layers provide exceptional shock absorption. If this isn’t a feasible option for you, try finding cardboard shipping boxes that are exceptionally thick and well made. In addition to the insulating foam that you taped around the piece itself, you can also use more insulating foam to line the inside of the box for extra protection.
Overkill? We Think Not
Pilling on the layers of defense may take a little more time, but not nearly as long as it took to create the art. In other words, it's time well spent.
Be sure to comment below if you have any additional tips for packing and shipping framed artwork. We'd love to hear from you.
Last Updated November 1, 2021
We’ve already discussed how to pack canvas prints and other art pieces for shipping. But when it comes to packing framed pieces, it’s a totally different ballgame. To make sure your framed artwork arrives at its destination totally intact, follow four simple steps — which I’ll “unpack” below. Step 1: Cling Film A common way […]
Congratulations! You’ve sold that beautiful canvas you worked so hard on for so long and put so much of yourself into. Of course, because it is so important to you, you want to make sure that when you ship your canvas piece—whether to a customer or to a gallery—that it is professionally and securely packaged and arrives looking as pristine and professional as it left your hands.
How can you pack your canvas prints or paintings to ensure they arrives to its final destination looking as you intended the piece to look? Check out these tips on damage-proof ways to pack your canvas prints and paintings.
Use Plastic Wrap for Initial Protection
First and foremost, it is absolutely critical that the piece is 100 percent dry. If it’s not, wrapping it in plastic wrap may damage the work. Start from the back of the piece and wrap it all the way around once at a straight angle, and then pull the wrap diagonally down the backside to start your next row.
By starting from the back, it leaves the front of the piece with a smooth finish and the diagonal sections on the back. When the recipient opens the package, they’ll see a smooth surface where the focus of the piece is—a much more professional looking sight than all the diagonal pieces of plastic.
Also, cut small slits into the back of the plastic so there is breathing room for the art. This will ensure there won’t be moisture trapped inside and the piece won’t crack.
Single-Wall Cardboard
The next piece of the packing puzzle should include a piece of single-wall cardboard, which is another form of padding. This will offer a thicker and sturdier piece of protection and will serve as another box that can absorb shock if the package happens to be handled roughly in the shipping process.
Most shipping companies require you to do this when shipping fragile pieces so there is less chance for damage. You can use double-wall cardboard if your piece is extra heavy, but a single-wall piece should suffice for most normal-sized pieces. Measure the width and the depth of your piece, double each measurement, and use a box cutter to cut the proper length in the cardboard.
However, make sure you have the longest side of the painting parallel with the cardboard grain; this will ensure you can fold the ends over and seal the cardboard closed. Tape the cardboard piece shut, and pinch off the ends to create extra shock absorption.
Bubble Wrap
Never place bubble wrap directly on the piece. There is a very good chance that if you do, especially if the bubbles are flush with the piece, you’ll have a not-so-professional-looking bubble-wrap pattern indented in the paint or ink. This may ultimately ruin the piece, and you’ll have a very unhappy recipient.
You can, however, opt to use GalleryPouch™ bubble bags, which are flat on both sides, or use bubble wrap on the outside of the cardboard that you placed around the outside of the painting. Usually one layer is enough to provide extra shock absorption – just fold the bubble wrap in half lengthwise and then tape it to the edges of the painting.
To save time and for added protection with a cleaner more professional look, use the GalleryPouch™ bubble bags which come in two options – with a flap or with a Velcro strip. They are heavy-duty, see-through plastic “envelopes” made of a special extra protective 3/16 inch bubble wrap material that is permanently sealed on three sides.
The open end of the pouch is secured with a flap or a reusable Velcro strip which means they can be used again and again to transport art back and forth to shows.
Leave No Space in the Outer Shipping Box
Once you’ve wrapped the piece in plastic wrap, placed it in a cardboard casing, and then wrapped the cardboard in bubble wrap, you’re finally ready to put the whole thing in a box for shipping.
When packing your piece in the outer box, your goal is to fill that box as much as possible, leaving no space between the wrapped art and the outer box itself. Even a small amount of unused space in the box could result in damage to the piece. You can do this by either cutting the box down to size, or filling the voids with extra bubble wrap or crumpled paper.
Use the highest quality packing tape you can find and be sure to create enough tension on all the edges and corners of the box so there’s no way it can come open. Throw on a “Fra-gee-lay” (Fragile) sticker (or 10) in the hopes that the delivery company will handle your piece with care. And now, your canvas print is ready to send to a client or art gallery!
Congratulations! You’ve sold that beautiful canvas you worked so hard on for so long and put so much of yourself into. Of course, because it is so important to you, you want to make sure that when you ship your canvas piece—whether to a customer or to a gallery—that it is professionally and securely packaged […]
Artists and art collectors alike share a common (and justified) fear: the potential for damage to your art during shipping. Artwork is delicate, but most movers and shipping companies are not. For an art collector, there’s nothing more devastating than when you’ve finally found that perfect piece for your home, and upon receiving the order the piece is so damaged that you either have to ship it back in hopes of getting it fixed, or write it off as a total loss (or hope that nobody will notice the damage, although YOU always will). For an artist, nobody wants their piece of art – which is a piece of their soul – to be ruined because of incorrect packaging, shipping and handling practices.
While bubble wrap may seem like a good idea, it has been demonstrated that the “bubbles” can end up sticking to the varnish of the painting—leaving an unsightly pattern of bubble-wrap pits and craters all over the piece. So, if not bubble wrap, how do you protect your artwork from shipping damage? Take a look at these four ways to keep your artwork from being damaged during shipping.
Wrap the Piece in Acid-Free Paper First
If you’re an artist shipping your piece to a buyer, a good way to ensure your artwork stays intact is by first wrapping it in acid paper before using the bubble wrap or our “Gallery Pouch”—which you’ll learn more about below. The acid-free paper is the same material used in archival documents. It will protect the painting from being penetrated by materials that could potentially damage or leave an imprint on the piece.
Always Use “Fragile” Labels
In the movie A Christmas Story, Ralphie’s dad receives his “major award” in a big box marked “Fra-gee-lay.” Well, you need to do the same when shipping artwork. This may be a no-brainier for some people, but using “fragile” labels on your package might make the delivery companies think twice about how they are handling your piece. Unfortunately, this isn’t always the case, and some shipping companies simply ignore “fragile” labels and “handle with care” signs. It’s worth a shot though. Placing a fragile label on the package doesn’t take much time and doing so means the shippers are at least somewhat aware that it should be handled delicately. If that label isn’t on the package, there’s no way for them to know it’s fragile, so you’re not even giving them a chance to handle the it differently than how they handle all the other packages.
Use Only High-Quality Packing Tape
Using a high-quality packing tape is important. It will help the package stay together during the shipping process (which usually involves a lot of manhandling and tossing into trucks). You also want to be sure the piece itself is protected inside the package. Taping a wrapped painting to a sheet of foam board will provide extra support and protection—just don’t wrap the piece in plain bubble wrap!
Use GalleryPouch Instead of Bubble Wrap
While some people may be willing to take the risk of using regular bubble wrap by turning the material outward (so the bubbles aren’t touching the piece), that’s still not a 100-percent foolproof way to protect your artwork. GalleryPouch bubble bags are a type of heavy-duty bubble wrap made specifically for shipping art. Unlike regular bubble wrap, the GalleryPouch is smooth on both sides, eliminating the chance that your piece will have tiny bubble patterns engrained in its surface upon arrival at its shipping destination. The GalleryPouch is constructed with 3/16-inch polyethylene, a heavyweight and heavy-duty material. It provides extreme support while still allowing the artwork to easily be seen through the wrapping. You can even create your own custom size for shipping artwork of all dimensions. We can create a custom GalleryPouch for you up to 52” x 156”. Read here about how the GalleryPouch kept one artist’s work from being damaged during transport to a gallery exhibit.
Artists and art collectors alike share a common (and justified) fear: the potential for damage to your art during shipping. Artwork is delicate, but most movers and shipping companies are not. For an art collector, there’s nothing more devastating than when you’ve finally found that perfect piece for your home, and upon receiving the order […]
It’s still summer, and wedding season is in full swing! Many couples are embracing DIY approaches to different aspects of their weddings to save on costs and create a day that is completely and uniquely theirs. Decorating is one area where couples – along with the help of family and friends – often take on more projects, and it’s one of the areas where you can really be creative and make your wedding stand out from the rest.
The choice of materials you use plays an important role in creating the look and feel of your ceremony and reception. Picture frames are wonderful, versatile pieces that you can use in many different ways to set your wedding apart.
Whether they are empty frames, frames with pictures or prints, or frames with other items inside, they offer endless ways to play a big role in your big day. We can’t talk about all the possibilities, so here are five ways you can use picture frames as part of your special day!
Use Frames as Props for Wedding Photos
Larger size frames can become a lovely prop for wedding photos. The bride and groom can hold the frame up in so many different ways: Maybe they hold it up and “frame” themselves smooching or maybe both the bride and groom each holds up an empty frame around their face.
Other members of the wedding party can also be part of photos using a frame, providing a theme that runs through the entire set of wedding photographs. Choose a large frame for this because it needs to be big enough to hold in front of a person and “frame” them with roughly the same dimensions as for a portrait photo.
A frame with a wide or substantial profile works best because a thin frame may not show up well in photos. For this reason, wood picture frames may be the best choice. Choose bright colors that go with the wedding colors, ornate patterns, rich, metallic tones, or natural wood with raw, rustic finishes. Using multiple frames can give you more photo options as well.
Let the Guests Have Some Fun with Frames Too
You can also provide frames to your guests to use as photo props during the reception. Either include them with a photo booth setup or place an empty picture frame at each table with instructions and example photos of what it’s for.
Your guests can easily use the frames to take “selfies” or to take pictures of each other – or even to frame pictures across the room. Smaller frames are suitable here, and you can use either wood picture frames or metal picture frames.
Most wedding guests will use their own smartphones or cameras to take pictures, so make sure you ask them to share their photos with you later. You can even create a hashtag for your wedding, for example, #markandamywedding. Ask your friends to use the hashtag when they upload pictures to Facebook or Twitter and then you’ll be able to search for your friends’ photos using your own hashtag.
Use Framed Photos to Decorate the Church or Reception Hall
There’s no better way to make a wedding more personal than to use photos of the bride and groom to decorate. You can use formal shots or create a photo story of your relationship from casual photos taken together over the course of your relationship.
Create a display that guests can view in the reception hall or hang framed photos with ribbon at the end of church pews or each row of seating.
To create a large wall display using photos, substitute frames for less expensive mat board, cut the board to frame each photo and then attach to the wall. Since, mat board is available in many colors, so you can choose ones that match your wedding colors to create a large display of formal or informal pictures.
Fill Frames With Flowers
Picture frames can be used to create unique flower displays, if you want something different than traditional bouquets or if you want additional flowers in a relatively small amount of space. Fill up a frame with flowers or flower petals, either real or artificial, and hang it on the wall or display it on a stand.
If you are crafty, you can create other types of collages inside of picture frames to use as decoration. Pick f items that fit your wedding theme such as seashells, rustic objects, and vintage papers – the options are limitless.
Use Frames For Seating Arrangements
At the reception, use blank picture frames to surround the seating cards that instruct your guests where they are supposed to sit. You can design and print out seating charts or alphabetic lists of names with corresponding tables, and then use picture frames to create a display with the charts or lists at the entrance to the reception hall.
Frames can also be laid on tabletops to be part of centerpieces, with vases or other items sitting inside.
It’s still summer, and wedding season is in full swing! Many couples are embracing DIY approaches to different aspects of their weddings to save on costs and create a day that is completely and uniquely theirs. Decorating is one area where couples – along with the help of family and friends – often take on […]