Acrylic has three qualities that make it an excellent substitute for glass in picture framing. It is shatterproof, lightweight and an excellent thermal insulator. Acrylic does require some special care and handling. Listed below are suggestions for cleaning and caring for acrylic.
Cleaning:
Reducing Static Charge:
Before removing the protective cover, dampen a soft cloth with water and wipe down all the edges. After removing the protective cover, you can use an acrylic cleaner such as Brillianize Acrylic Cleaner & Polish applied to both sides of the acrylic to reduce static electricity.
Acrylic has three qualities that make it an excellent substitute for glass in picture framing. It is shatterproof, lightweight and an excellent thermal insulator. Acrylic does require some special care and handling. Listed below are suggestions for cleaning and caring for acrylic. Cleaning: Never use glass cleaners that contain ammonia. Never use paper towels to […]
Acrylic is a type of glazing that can be used in place of glass for picture framing. It is often referred to by the brand name of Plexiglas. While glass picture frame glazing may be traditional, acrylic glazing offers many of the same features (UV-filter, non-glare) as glass with a few added benefits. It also has its own unique draw backs. Here are the pros and cons of framing with acrylic so you can decide if it’s the right framing material for your next project.
There are several reasons some people prefer to frame with acrylic. Some of the top benefits include:
Many of these qualities make acrylic a favorite among galleries as the visuals are better and the light weight allows for easier hanging of large pieces. It’s also a good choice for framed art in high-traffic areas since if it gets bumped or falls it won’t shatter.
Acrylic glazing isn’t perfect though. Here are some cons to keep in mind when considering acrylic glazing:
Depending on your needs and the level of frame maintenance you prefer, these cons could be deal breakers in some cases.
Acrylic glazing has emerged as a true alternative to glass glazing, meaning all the same treatment options are available regardless of the material.
Popular acrylic glazing options include:
In the end, one type of glazing isn’t necessarily better than the others. It depends on your individual wants and needs for each framing project.
References: “Caring for your art: A guide for artists, collectors, galleries and art institutions” by Jill Snyder.
Acrylic is a type of glazing that can be used in place of glass for picture framing. It is often referred to by the brand name of Plexiglas. While glass picture frame glazing may be traditional, acrylic glazing offers many of the same features (UV-filter, non-glare) as glass with a few added benefits. It also has […]
When you’re an artist, you may often leave artwork out in the studio or stored safely away. Sometimes, however, your studio or the materials and location you select to store your artwork can have detrimental consequences on your art in the long term.
If you create your artwork in a studio, it’s important to ensure the environment itself doesn’t cause damage.
Follow these steps to reduce harm caused by the environment to your artwork:
Weatherproof your studio: No one wants to enter the studio to find that a hole in the roof let in water that destroyed the collection. Changes in temperature and humidity due to drafty windows can also quickly cause damage.
Reduce the light: Studios are often brightly lit, with lots of windows or lighting. However, direct sunlight can fade and damage art. Control direct daylight with blinds, shutters, or UV-treated acrylic film.
Clean the air: Minimize impurities with air filters. Air pollutants, which range from dust to VOCs emitted from paint or plastics, can cause artwork to deteriorate.
Keep the studio clean: This may be difficult for artists who work better in chaos, but clutter is an invitation for bugs, causes a fire hazard, and contributes to airborne dust and debris. Make sure that you set all of your clean art supplies away when not in use, keeping the room clear of clutter.
Regulate temperature and humidity: Keep your studio well ventilated, as high levels of humidity can cause irreversible damage to artwork. Install controls to ensure the temperature and humidity levels stay at safe levels.
There are plenty of tools and environmental controls to help keep your art safe from harm while in storage or the studio:
Artwork that must be put away must be stored properly to ensure it stays in pristine condition.
To prevent the loss of precious artwork or photographs, it’s important to set yourself up for storage success with the right materials:
Select archival or museum-quality products: Archival and museum-quality generally means that the materials are acid-free and suitable for long-term storage. Frame Destination, for example, carries a number of museum-quality framing and storage materials, such as acid-free photo storage boxes and acid-free tissue.
Check the labels: Make sure that no known damaging materials were used in the product, especially plastics. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and other unknown plastics should be avoided, according to the Library of Congress. Safe plastics include polyethylene, polypropylene and polyester (polyethylene terephthalate or PET). Our protective clear bags and print sleeves are made from plastics such as polypropylene and polyester.
Gain knowledge: Learn about the compatibility of materials you combine and what various environmental factors cause the most damage to framed pictures and other artwork.
Find the right archival storage materials to keep your artwork safe, and make sure your studio is in the right condition for artwork that’s out in the open. There is plenty you can do in your studio and in storage to protect your artwork from damage.
When you’re an artist, you may often leave artwork out in the studio or stored safely away. Sometimes, however, your studio or the materials and location you select to store your artwork can have detrimental consequences on your art in the long term. The Studio Environment If you create your artwork in a studio, it’s […]
Frames can make or break a piece of art. There’s a reason why art galleries choose certain frames for their collections — even a priceless Picasso would look cheap in a frame from a discount store.
You don’t have to have an art gallery budget to make your art look priceless, though. Canvas frames and floater frames are designed to mimic the look of fine art in a gallery, but for a fraction of the price.
Floater frames get their name because of the optical illusion they create: the canvas looks as though it is “floating” inside the frame. This effect occurs because the inside edge of the frame is ½-inch from the side of the canvas, both protecting the canvas and giving it an appearance that is unlike any regular frame.
Floater frames at Frame Destination range from 1 7/8 inches to 2 3/16 inches deep, which are perfect for gallery wrap canvases that are between 1 1/2 inches and 2 inches deep.
For example, the F141 canvas floater frame is 2-1/8 inches deep, providing a recessed appearance for the 2-inch tall S280 and S150 stretcher bar frames. In addition, this frame is available with a black inside and gold or silver face, which further emphasizes the floating look.
Floater frames are available in wood and metal as well as a variety of colors, including black, white, bronze, gold, silver and natural wood hues, and widths — from stately 2 1/4-inch wide wood floater frames to ¼-inch metal floater frames that let the artwork shine.
Ordering a canvas floater frame is easy: pick a frame, select a color and then enter the size of your canvas. To determine the correct floater frame size, enter the size of your stretcher bar frame, measuring the straight sides from corner to corner. With standard finished floater frames, we add one inch to the canvas size to allow for a 1/2-inch gap around the canvas. If you prefer a smaller gap, which may be better for flatter canvases, simply adjust the size of your canvas: if you have a 16 x 20 canvas, for example, you may enter 15-1/2 x 19-1/2 so that the floater is cut 1/2-inch smaller, resulting in a 1/4-inch gap along the sides.
Each floater frame comes completely assembled with glue and V-nails, along with mounting and hanging hardware. If you’d like to see what you get before you invest, order a sample set: you can order corner or straight sets of color frames or a selection of black and white frames to find the perfect match.
Turn almost any photo into a canvas by ordering a canvas through a specialized printing company. You can also print a photo on canvas with a regular printer, though you’ll need to follow some specific steps to stretch the canvas so that it will work with a floating frame.
Regardless of how you create the canvas, a floater frame is a sophisticated and impressive way to feature your art — for now and for years to come.
Frames can make or break a piece of art. There’s a reason why art galleries choose certain frames for their collections — even a priceless Picasso would look cheap in a frame from a discount store. You don’t have to have an art gallery budget to make your art look priceless, though. Canvas frames and […]
Today, let’s talk about mat board window openings. It may not sound like an exciting topic, but understanding how to calculate mat board window opening sizes is a crucial skill for DIY picture framers.
The mat window opening, also known as the exact mat opening, is the opening that is cut in a mat board through which the image can be viewed.

Standard mat window openings are cut slightly smaller than the actual image size — this is called “cropping” the image. The opening is smaller in order to cover the edge of the image or any surrounding white border if it is a print. This is both an aesthetic (it looks better) and a practical choice; you don’t want the image to fall through the window opening if it’s cut too large!
Standard, off-the-shelf frames that come with mats usually crop ¼ inch on all four sides. Frame Destination cuts our popular size mat windows 1/8-inch smaller than the image to allow for maximum exposure of your image without a loss of detail. For images that are larger than 18” x 24”, our standard crop is ¼-inch.
Example: Your image measures exactly 8” x 10”. This is the actual image size, exclusive of any white borders, if it is a print. If you choose an 8” x 10” mat in one of our popular sizes, the actual window opening size will be 7 3/4” x 9 3/4”, which crops 1/8-inch of the image on all four sides.
Example: Your image measures exactly 8” x 10”. This is the actual image size, exclusive of any white borders, if it is a print. If you choose an 8” x 10” mat in one of our popular sizes, the actual window opening size will be 7 3/4” x 9 3/4”, which crops 1/8-inch of the image on all four sides.

If you prefer less or more cropping of the image, check the “customize this preset frame size” box and select your preferences. You can also always contact us for advice on the best mat window opening size for your artwork.
Today, let’s talk about mat board window openings. It may not sound like an exciting topic, but understanding how to calculate mat board window opening sizes is a crucial skill for DIY picture framers. The mat window opening, also known as the exact mat opening, is the opening that is cut in a mat board […]
Framing sounds simple on paper, but it’s trickier than you may think. Determining the proper mat size and mat opening for a print or photograph is one of the more confusing issues facing novice framers.
First, be sure you understand the two different measurements associated with a frame mat. There is the overall size of the mat, which is about the size of the inside of the frame. Then, there is the mat window measurement, which refers to the size of the opening in the mat through which we see the image.
To determine the general overall dimensions of the mat, measure the glazing size (size of the glass or acrylic) of the intended frame. If the glass fits inside the frame without too much wiggle room, then it’s a good template for cutting the mat to its overall size.
As for the size of the window in the mat, one simple general rule is that the opening should not be the same size as the print or photo. Cutting a mat to the exact dimensions of the outer border of a picture or photograph is almost impossible and it is nearly impossible to get them lined up perfectly.
Off-the-shelf, pre-cut picture frames usually have mat boards with openings that are half an inch smaller than the intended picture size. For example, a 16x20-inch frame including a mat purchased for use with 11x14 prints or photographs will have an actual window opening somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 1/2 x 13 1/2 inches.
This results in the mat overlaps each side of the print by 1/4 inch. A quarter of an inch does not sound like much on its own, but it adds up since every mat has four sides.
One of the most common questions from DIY framers is how large should the mat border be? While we can make suggestions, the answer is: However big you’d like! As a general guideline, the mat should be at least 1.5 times the size of the frame to keep the frame from overpowering the artwork. Adjusting the size of the visible mat will dramatically change the appearance of your art, so it’s important to have an understanding of the desired final look.
Many professional framers, including Frame Destination, recommend a mat border of 2 to 4 inches (unless you have a specific look in mind that calls for a wider or narrower mat). This provides the “traditional” framed look with a mat border that is equal on all sides and doesn’t overwhelm the art.
If your art is smaller, you may want to opt for a border that is closer to 2 inches to avoid overwhelming the artwork. Larger framed pieces can support wider mat borders while still retaining that classic framed look.
Frame Destination can custom cut a mat to any size, so you're not restricted to a standard frame size.
It’s also important to consider the color of the mat you’ve chosen. You can display a large amount of a neutral color mat board without it overwhelming and distracting from the art, but if you’ve opted for a bright, rich or bold colored mat, you may want to consider a narrower border.
When putting together a framed photo or piece of art, there are three major components that will affect the look and feel of the final piece:
In traditional framing practices, the mat plays a supporting role. But in some applications it can become a much larger part of your framed art. Large mat borders can give your art a “gallery” look and can help draw attention to your art if it’s displayed on a large wall.
Opting for a weighted mat (where one or more sides has a wider mat border) is another popular option. Taking weighting to an extreme is a popular modern look that pairs well with black and white photography. There are many mat board styles to give your art the perfect look.
Using bright or bold colored mats is another way to add impact to your art, particularly for black and white photos. Mat board is available in just about every color of the rainbow — including green, blue, purple, orange, red and yellow — so you’re not limited to earth tones or neutrals when framing.
If you want to add depth, character or color to your mat without overwhelming the art or opting for a large mat border, consider layered mats. In a layered mat situation, two or three mats (often of different colors) are framed. You see the most of the top layer and smaller amounts of each of the lower layers.
This technique allows you to add some depth to your framing, or introduce a pop of color. For just a little color touch, opt for a neutral or subtle top mat, then select a bold or bright color for the second layer. This technique is ideal when you want to call out a color featured prominently in the art, but don’t want a full-color border. To highlight more than one color, opt for a triple mat with a neutral top and colorful second and third mats. Or you can achieve a modern look by layering white-black-white mats.
For depth without color, opt for mat layers that are the same color or have slight shade variations within the same color palette. This will give you the tiered look without adding more color.
Layered mats can be as large as you’d like, so you can use this technique with large borders or with the traditional 2- to 4-inch mat border.
At the end of the day, how big your frame border is depends on personal preference and your desired look. When you order a mat board from Frame Destination, you can play with the sizes to see how your art will look with its new mat. You can even upload your image for a preview, and change all of the colors of the mat and frame to see all your options before you buy.

Although allowing the mat to overlap the image is the most common matting technique, sometimes using a mat opening that is larger than the image, known as “float mounting,” works best. This matting technique prevents any masking (or covering) of any part of the framed image. It is especially useful when you want the ability to view the artist’s signature or print data.
There are several ways to accomplish this look, including using different overlap measurements on different edges of the work. Usually the side and top border measurements are between ¼ to ½ inch and the bottom is expanded to reveal between ¼ and 1 inch of the border. In most cases, the bottom dimensions of a mat are equal to the top and sides, but the presence of a signature changes all that. Getting it right requires a little math along with some good measuring skills. Beyond that, another common mistake is to forget to double the border size when calculating the opening.
For example, if the signature is shorter than ½ an inch, you can use ¼- or 3/8-inch top and side borders with a slightly larger ½- inch bottom border. If the signature has a height of 3/4 inch, you can use ½-inch top and side borders. In this case, the mat opening will be 1 inch larger than the image width, and 1¼ inches larger than the image height.
Sometimes drawing out a sketch prior to making any cuts helps better visualize your goals. Beyond that, never forget that the adage “measure twice, cut once” doesn’t just apply to carpentry.
Frame Destination carries several varieties of mats, including 100% cotton, acid-free and lignin-free mats with solid color throughout, plus mats that trap and neutralize pollutants and acid by-products. All mats from our shop feature larger windows than most store-bought mats, meaning more of the image showing through in a framed piece.
All artwork less than 20 inches on each side has mat windows cut ¼ inch smaller, which allows for an overlap of just 1/8 inch for each side. Openings for images 20 inches and larger on both sides are cut ½ inch smaller. The slightly enlarged window opening still allows for sufficient coverage or overlap of any paper border around the image, thereby supporting the image, and negating concerns that the substrate the image is mounted against will show up in the completed framed item.
Mats are an integral part of framing. Practically, mats help keep the framed image flat, and provide a buffer layer between the art or photo and the frame glazing. Aesthetically, mats help accent the framed item, presenting your art at its best and creating a unique look. Depending on the mat’s composition, it can even help preserve your artwork.
In other words, getting matting right isn’t always a piece of cake, but it’s always worth it.
Updated March 24, 2022
Framing sounds simple on paper, but it’s trickier than you may think. Determining the proper mat size and mat opening for a print or photograph is one of the more confusing issues facing novice framers. First, be sure you understand the two different measurements associated with a frame mat. There is the overall size of […]