Framing sounds simple on paper, but it’s trickier than you may think. Determining the proper mat size and mat opening for a print or photograph is one of the more confusing issues facing novice framers.

First, be sure you understand the two different measurements associated with a frame mat. There is the overall size of the mat, which is about the size of the inside of the frame. Then, there is the mat window measurement, which refers to the size of the opening in the mat through which we see the image.

Measure the Dimensions

To determine the general overall dimensions of the mat, measure the glazing size (size of the glass or acrylic) of the intended frame. If the glass fits inside the frame without too much wiggle room, then it’s a good template for cutting the mat to its overall size.

As for the size of the window in the mat, one simple general rule is that the opening should not be the same size as the print or photo. Cutting a mat to the exact dimensions of the outer border of a picture or photograph is almost impossible and it is nearly impossible to get them lined up perfectly.

Off-the-shelf, pre-cut picture frames usually have mat boards with openings that are half an inch smaller than the intended picture size. For example, a 16x20-inch frame including a mat purchased for use with 11x14 prints or photographs will have an actual window opening somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 1/2 x 13 1/2 inches.

This results in the mat overlaps each side of the print by 1/4 inch. A quarter of an inch does not sound like much on its own, but it adds up since every mat has four sides.

How to Determine Mat Size for a Picture?

One of the most common questions from DIY framers is how large should the mat border be? While we can make suggestions, the answer is: However big you’d like! As a general guideline, the mat should be at least 1.5 times the size of the frame to keep the frame from overpowering the artwork. Adjusting the size of the visible mat will dramatically change the appearance of your art, so it’s important to have an understanding of the desired final look.

Best Practice for Frame Mat Size

Many professional framers, including Frame Destination, recommend a mat border of 2 to 4 inches (unless you have a specific look in mind that calls for a wider or narrower mat). This provides the “traditional” framed look with a mat border that is equal on all sides and doesn’t overwhelm the art.

If your art is smaller, you may want to opt for a border that is closer to 2 inches to avoid overwhelming the artwork. Larger framed pieces can support wider mat borders while still retaining that classic framed look.

Frame Destination can custom cut a mat to any size, so you're not restricted to a standard frame size.

It’s also important to consider the color of the mat you’ve chosen. You can display a large amount of a neutral color mat board without it overwhelming and distracting from the art, but if you’ve opted for a bright, rich or bold colored mat, you may want to consider a narrower border.

More Mat = More Impact

When putting together a framed photo or piece of art, there are three major components that will affect the look and feel of the final piece:

In traditional framing practices, the mat plays a supporting role. But in some applications it can become a much larger part of your framed art. Large mat borders can give your art a “gallery” look and can help draw attention to your art if it’s displayed on a large wall.

Opting for a weighted mat (where one or more sides has a wider mat border) is another popular option. Taking weighting to an extreme is a popular modern look that pairs well with black and white photography. There are many mat board styles to give your art the perfect look.

Using bright or bold colored mats is another way to add impact to your art, particularly for black and white photos. Mat board is available in just about every color of the rainbow — including green, blue, purple, orange, red and yellow — so you’re not limited to earth tones or neutrals when framing.

Adding Depth Without Size

If you want to add depth, character or color to your mat without overwhelming the art or opting for a large mat border, consider layered mats. In a layered mat situation, two or three mats (often of different colors) are framed. You see the most of the top layer and smaller amounts of each of the lower layers.

This technique allows you to add some depth to your framing, or introduce a pop of color. For just a little color touch, opt for a neutral or subtle top mat, then select a bold or bright color for the second layer. This technique is ideal when you want to call out a color featured prominently in the art, but don’t want a full-color border. To highlight more than one color, opt for a triple mat with a neutral top and colorful second and third mats. Or you can achieve a modern look by layering white-black-white mats.

For depth without color, opt for mat layers that are the same color or have slight shade variations within the same color palette. This will give you the tiered look without adding more color.

Layered mats can be as large as you’d like, so you can use this technique with large borders or with the traditional 2- to 4-inch mat border.

At the end of the day, how big your frame border is depends on personal preference and your desired look. When you order a mat board from Frame Destination, you can play with the sizes to see how your art will look with its new mat. You can even upload your image for a preview, and change all of the colors of the mat and frame to see all your options before you buy.

Matting Techniques

float mounting

Although allowing the mat to overlap the image is the most common matting technique, sometimes using a mat opening that is larger than the image, known as “float mounting,” works best. This matting technique prevents any masking (or covering) of any part of the framed image. It is especially useful when you want the ability to view the artist’s signature or print data.

There are several ways to accomplish this look, including using different overlap measurements on different edges of the work. Usually the side and top border measurements are between ¼ to ½  inch and the bottom is expanded to reveal between ¼ and 1 inch of the border. In most cases, the bottom dimensions of a mat are equal to the top and sides, but the presence of a signature changes all that. Getting it right requires a little math along with some good measuring skills. Beyond that, another common mistake is to forget to double the border size when calculating the opening.

For example, if the signature is shorter than ½  an inch, you can use ¼- or 3/8-inch top and side borders with a slightly larger ½- inch bottom border. If the signature has a height of 3/4 inch, you can use ½-inch top and side borders. In this case, the mat opening will be 1 inch larger than the image width, and 1¼ inches larger than the image height.

Sometimes drawing out a sketch prior to making any cuts helps better visualize your goals. Beyond that, never forget that the adage “measure twice, cut once” doesn’t just apply to carpentry.

Frame Destination carries several varieties of mats, including 100% cotton, acid-free and lignin-free mats with solid color throughout, plus mats that trap and neutralize pollutants and acid by-products. All mats from our shop feature larger windows than most store-bought mats, meaning more of the image showing through in a framed piece.

All artwork less than 20 inches on each side has mat windows cut ¼ inch smaller, which allows for an overlap of just 1/8 inch for each side. Openings for images 20 inches and larger on both sides are cut ½ inch smaller. The slightly enlarged window opening still allows for sufficient coverage or overlap of any paper border around the image, thereby supporting the image, and negating concerns that the substrate the image is mounted against will show up in the completed framed item.

In Praise of Mats

Mats are an integral part of framing. Practically, mats help keep the framed image flat, and provide a buffer layer between the art or photo and the frame glazing. Aesthetically, mats help accent the framed item, presenting your art at its best and creating a unique look. Depending on the mat’s composition, it can even help preserve your artwork.

In other words, getting matting right isn’t always a piece of cake, but it’s always worth it.

Updated March 24, 2022

Framing sounds simple on paper, but it’s trickier than you may think. Determining the proper mat size and mat opening for a print or photograph is one of the more confusing issues facing novice framers. First, be sure you understand the two different measurements associated with a frame mat. There is the overall size of […]

It is often difficult to shop online, especially if you’re depending on the color selection — and with picture frames, which must complement the artwork or photograph inside them, it can be even more difficult to tell if it’s the right fit.

Even with the right color calibration, you may not know exactly how black that black picture frame is, or what the cherry wood picture frame will look like in your home or office’s lighting. Many homes do not have the exactly the same light temperature as a typical studio strobe, which is the lighting often used to take photographs of picture frame mouldings. In addition, sometimes customers really need to see what a photograph or painting will look like next to the frame.

To make it easier to truly see and feel the metal and wood picture mouldings we offer at Frame Destination, we have created a series of straight and corner sample pieces. The straight pieces, measuring six inches long, are an inexpensive way to really observe the actual moulding’s color, texture and shape. Our corner samples, which are just slightly more expensive as they involve considerably more labor to create, can be invaluable in helping you or your prospective customer select the perfect picture frame.

We carry a wide variety of sample sets specifically made to cater to your needs: our metal picture frame sample sets can be purchased in groups of simple black and white or colored picture frames, including silver and chocolate. Our sample sets also include stretcher bar sample sets, floater frame samples and wood picture frame samples in various natural finishes and colors.

Just like our picture frames, you can customize your picture frame moulding sample sets — simply check off the frames you’d like to see in person, and you’ll receive only those mouldings in your picture frame sample set to help you make your decision.

View our wood and metal moulding samples.

picture frame moulding samples

It is often difficult to shop online, especially if you’re depending on the color selection — and with picture frames, which must complement the artwork or photograph inside them, it can be even more difficult to tell if it’s the right fit. Even with the right color calibration, you may not know exactly how black […]

Mount board gives custom framed photos stability and is an essential part of picture framing. Mount boards, often also referred to as foamcore, come in a variety of thicknesses, your choice of black or white, and support different mounting techniques (such as self-adhesive mount boards versus heat activated board). There’s also the option of archival versus non-archival quality. There are a number of differences between archival and non-archival mount boards, and these differences will vary between different manufacturers. However, there are a few fundamental things to understand in order to choose the correct mount board for your custom framing project.

When Non-Archival is OK

Non archival mount board means that the foamboard is not certified acid-free. Acid is harmful to pictures and artwork and can cause yellowing, discoloration and other damage over time.

A general guideline is that regular mounting boards are considered ok for temporary and/or very inexpensive framing. When framing original artwork, documents or precious photos that can’t be replaced (such as old prints that can’t easily be reproduced) non-archival mount boards are highly discouraged. However, framing things like posters and general home décor on this type of board is fine.

Before you make the decision, it’s important to understand what will happen to your art over time. When using this type of mount board, minor decay in the artwork can start occurring within 5 years. This will vary dramatically based on the type of framing components, the environment (light, temperature, humidity) of the frame package, the chemistry of the print, and the type of mounting. Although some decay may occur, it may not be very noticeable without doing a comparison with the original.

When to use Archival-Quality Mount Board

Archival, or conservation quality, mount board will better protect your picture over time. Archival quality board usually has the following characteristics:

These measures help ensure the mount board doesn’t contain any properties that will produce harmful acid over time. This style will be advertised as acid-free, archival quality, museum quality, conservation quality, or may have the term “rag” which denotes a cotton base, in the product title.

Bainbridge also produces a mount board with Micro Chamber technology, called Artcare™, that goes a step further and allows their archival products to actively absorb harmful components entering the framing package. This can be especially useful in the case of foamboard. Archival foamboard will have an archival mounting surface to protect the print, but the foam in the center will out gas over time. The Bainbridge product will absorb this out gassing.

Now that you understand the differences in archival versus non-archival mount board, you can decide which is best for your DIY picture framing project.

Mount board gives custom framed photos stability and is an essential part of picture framing. Mount boards, often also referred to as foamcore, come in a variety of thicknesses, your choice of black or white, and support different mounting techniques (such as self-adhesive mount boards versus heat activated board). There’s also the option of archival […]

Special-New-Bubble-BagFrame Destination Inc. has partnered with Andrew Darlow of The Imaging Buffet to bring to market our new GalleryPouch™ Gold art bubble bags to solve the problem of safely transporting framed art and canvas gallery wraps to and from art galleries and art shows. Our best version of GalleryPouch™ Gold includes a resealable Velcro® flap. GalleryPouch™ Gold is available in over 100 standard sizes or full custom. They are available in square, rectangular and even tube shapes to help protect rolled canvas. We also offer the GalleryPouch™ Gold with just a flap and no Velcro® as a cost saving alternative. We have created a bubble bag help page with calculators to help you determine the size you need.

The GalleryPouch™ Gold is a premium bubble bag composed of heavy duty laminated 3/16 polyethylene bubble. The bubbles are sandwiched between two layers of durable polyethylene sheet to help protect the. The bag can be used over and over again to protect and transport art work. Our photography customers can also use the bags to help provide additional protection to portfolios or even tripods with the tube shaped GalleryPouch™ Gold.

Frame Destination Inc. has partnered with Andrew Darlow of The Imaging Buffet to bring to market our new GalleryPouch™ Gold art bubble bags to solve the problem of safely transporting framed art and canvas gallery wraps to and from art galleries and art shows. Our best version of GalleryPouch™ Gold includes a resealable Velcro® flap. […]

Mounting a photo or art to a firm backing or mount board helps stabilize the print and gives it extra protection from tears, creases, and other damage. While typically you’d mount a photo before framing, mounting a photo, document, print, or paper-based original artwork that you plan to transport or temporarily display without a frame gives it the same protections.

In these situations, you’ll want to opt for a more temporary mounting technique to ensure the photo can safely and easily be removed from the board as needed. To afford the best protections, opt for acid-free, archival-quality mount board and photo mounting supplies, even for temporary mounting.

Best Supplies for Temporary Mounting

When selecting a backing board for temporary mounting, it’s tempting to choose for the cheapest option. While it’s generally considered ok to use non-archival quality mount boards for temporary use, it’s important to remember that exposure to the naturally occurring acid in paper-based products can damage your photo, art, or print. To truly protect your photo, choose an acid-free or “rag” mounting board. The mounting board should be a little bigger than your print (this extra room makes it easier to mount the photo and helps protect the edges of your print.)

Since this is only a temporary need, you’ll want to use less invasive mounting supplies. Hinging Tape and Tissue is more permanent and requires more contact with your photo. Instead, opt for photo corners, which don’t adhere directly to your print.

Finally, since your photo won’t be in a frame with protective glazing it will be susceptible to scratching and fingerprints. The mount board stabilizes the print, but doesn’t protect the photo’s surface. To protect the surface, place the entire mounted piece in a protective case, such as shrink wrap or clear bags for temporary display needs, or an extra protective GalleryPouch™ during transport.

Temporary Mounting Technique

If possible, leave about a 1-inch empty border around the image or artwork. This will afford your print further protection from the mounting supplies.

Adhere the photo corners (sometimes called mounting corners) to your backing board. Remember to use an acid-free backing board and photo corners to avoid harmful acid contact with your art. The corners of your print should slide neatly into the photo corners, keeping the image centered on the mount board.

If you’re concerned about the photo bowing out, which can be an issue when using photo corners, shrink wrapping the piece is your best bet. This tight seal protects your photo and keeps it flat. If bowing is less of a concern, a simple sealable clear bag will protect the print just fine.

Transporting art can be a major source of stress, as a lot of damage can be caused during the move. Once your print is temporarily mounted for stability, place the entire thing in a GalleryPouch™ Bubble Bag. The inside of the bag are flat and smooth so it won’t scratch your print (and you can always put it in a clear bag before using the GalleryPouch™ if you’re still concerned) and the tough exterior of the GalleryPouch™ protects the print from scratches and penetrating damage.

With these easy techniques, you can protect your photo, art, print, or document when you only need a temporary solution instead of a full picture frame.

Mounting a photo or art to a firm backing or mount board helps stabilize the print and gives it extra protection from tears, creases, and other damage. While typically you’d mount a photo before framing, mounting a photo, document, print, or paper-based original artwork that you plan to transport or temporarily display without a frame […]

It is critical that you have an established account with some time and 100%
positive feedback. If you don't your bids are limited to scammers, and people
that are ignorant about how eBay works. For products like used camera gear, the
law of supply and demand is as reliable as the law of gravity so I don't use any
reserve and I set the starting bid at 1 cent. If it is a common item you can watch
it sell a few times and see the price window of where it sells. In general, the
poor quality ads will fetch less money. I always sell at the top of the window.
For my ads, I take lots of high quality pictures. If there is a defect, then I
will take a good picture of the defect, and I will point it out so people can
see what they are getting and feel more comfortable that I am not hiding things.
In addition to the specs I will provide some personal commentary on how I used
the equipment and what I liked about it. This helps people see that I am an
individual selling my own gear, as opposed to a thief selling stolen gear,
someone running a junk sale out of their garage, or a scammer that actually
isn't selling anything at all. Thief's and scammers are lazy and do not take
time to create personal ads. I have no need for hidden reserve prices and think
many just use them to try to sell to fools. I also have no need for a high
starting bid, it just cost more money. Since I have no reserve, and a 1 cent
starting bid I will usually have several bids in the first couple days which
helps it stand out in the listings. I have used this method on a dSLR that
ultimately sold for over $1,000. I have also used it for iPods, other
electronics, and tools with no problem. Do not try it with art or framing
products, it won't work for those types of items.

Cheers,
Mark

It is critical that you have an established account with some time and 100% positive feedback. If you don’t your bids are limited to scammers, and people that are ignorant about how eBay works. For products like used camera gear, the law of supply and demand is as reliable as the law of gravity so […]